The Book That Inspired Gordon Ramsay
Escoffier Recipe 11
Quantities for making Four Quarts.
4 Ibs. of trimmings and bones of sole or whiting.
2 oz. of parsley, root or stalks.
1/2 bottle of white wine.
1/2lb. of sliced, blanched onions.
Preparation. - Butter the bottom of a thick, tall stewpan, put in the blanched onions and the parsley-stalks, and upon these aromatics lay the fish remains.
Add the juice of a lemon, cover the stewpan, put it on the fire, and allow the fish to exude its essence, jerking the pan at intervals.
Moisten, in the first place, with the white wine; then, with the lid off, reduce the liquid to about half. Now add four quarts of cold water, bring to the boil, skim, and then leave to cook for twenty minutes, only, on a moderate fire.
The time allowed is ample for the purpose of extracting the aromatic and gelatinous properties contained in the bones, and a more protracted stewing would only impair the savour of the stock.
Remarks upon White Fish Stock. - The formula which I give above diverges considerably from that commonly used, for, as a rule, fish stock is diluted far too much, and is stewed for much too long a time. I have observed that fish stock may be greatly improved by rapid cooking, and it was this consideration that led me to dilute it scantily, so as to avoid prolonged reduction.
It is likewise necessary to remember that in order to make perfect fish stock, only the sole or whiting should be used. In a case of emergency, however, i.e., if the supply of the latter were to run short, a quarter of their weight of brill bones might be added to them. But all other kinds of fish should be avoided in the preparation.
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