The Book That Inspired Gordon Ramsay
Escoffier recipe 14
The various glazes of meat, fowl, game, and fish are merely stock reduced to the point of viscosity. Their uses are legion.
Occasionally they serve in decking dishes with a brilliant and unctuous coating which makes them slightly; at other times they may help to strengthen the consistence of a sauce or other culinary preparation, while again they may be used as sauces proper after they have been correctly creamed or buttered. Glazes are distinguished from essences by the fact that the latter are only prepared with the object of extracting all the flavour of the product under treatment, whereas the former are, on the contrary, constituted by the whole base of the substance itself.
They therefore have not only its savour, but also its succulence and mellowness, whereby they are superior to the essences, and cooking can but be improved by substituting them for the latter. Nevertheless, many chefs of the old school do not permit the use of glazes in culinary preparations, or, rather, they are of opinion that each cooking operation should produce them on its own account, and thus be sufficient unto itself. Certainly, the theory is correct when neither time nor cost is limited.
But nowadays the establishments are scarce where these theories may be applied, and, indeed, if one does
not make an abuse of glazes, and if they be prepared with care, their use gives excellent results, while they lend themselves admirably to the very complex demands of modern customs.
