The Book That Inspired Gordon Ramsay
Escoffier recipe 6
SPECIAL CONSOMME RECIPE
The consommes whose formulae I have just given are intended more particularly for dinners. They are always finished off by some kind of garnish, which, besides lending them an additional touch of flavour, gives them their special and definite character when they are served up in the diner’s plate.
But the case is otherwise with the consommes served for suppers. These, being only served in cups, either hot or cold, do not allow of any garnishing, since they are to be drunk at table. They must therefore be perfect in themselves, delicate, and quite clear.
These special consommes are made in a similar manner to the others, though it is needful to slightly increase the quantity of meat used for the clarification, and to add to that clarification the particular flavour mentioned on the menu-to wit, a few
stalks of celery, if the consomme is a celery one; a small quantity of curry, if the consomme is given as ” a l’ Indienne “; or a few old roast partridges if it is to be termed ” consomme au fumet de perdreau ” ; and so on.
The means by which one may vary the aroma of consommes are legion, but it is highly important, what aroma so ever be used, that the latter be not too pronounced. It ought only to lend a distinctive and, at the same time, subtle finish to the consomme, which, besides sharpening the latter, should increase its succulence.
When the consomme is served cold it ought to have the qualities of an extremely light and easily-melting jelly, barely firm; but when it is too liquid, it rarely gives that sensation of perfection and succulence to the palate of the consumer which the latter expects. When too firm and too gelatinous it is positively disagreeable; therefore, if it is to be relished, it should be just right in respect of consistency.