The Book That Inspired Gordon Ramsay
Escoffier recipe 6
GAME CONSOMMe RECIPE
The necks, breasts, and shoulders of venison and of hare, old wild rabbits, old pheasants, and old partridges may be used in the production of game consommes. An ordinary consomme may likewise be made, in which half the beef can be replaced by veal, and to which may be added, while clarifying, a succulent game essence. This last method is even preferable when dealing with feathered game, but in either case it is essential that the meat used should be half-roasted beforehand, in order to strengthen the fumet.
The formula that I give below must therefore only be looked upon as a model, necessarily alterable according to the resources at one’s disposal, the circumstances, and the end in view.
Liquor – Five and one-half quarts of water.
Seasoning. – One oz. of salt and a few peppercorns, these
be added ten minutes previous to straining the consomme.
Time allowed for cooking. – Three hours.
Mode of Procedure. – Proceed in exactly the same way as for ordinary consommes, taking care only to half-roast the meat, as I pointed out above, before putting it in the stewpan.
THE CLARIFICATION OF GAME CONSOMMES
The constituents of the clarification of game consommes according to the kind of consomme desired. If it is to have a partridge flavour, one partridge should be allowed for each Quart of the consomme, whereas if its flavour is to be that of the pheasant, half an old pheasant will be required per quart of the liquid. Lastly, in the case of plain game consomme, one lb. of lean venison, hare, or wild rabbit should be allowed for each quart of the required consomme.
Mode of Procedure. – Whatever be the kind of game used must be thoroughly boned and the meat well pounded together with the white of an egg per four quarts of consomme.
About two oz. per quart of dried mushrooms should now be added if they can be procured, while the bones and the remains or carcases of game should be browned in the oven and completely drained of all grease. The whole can now be mixed with the cold game consomme. The clarification is then put over an open fire- stirring incessantly the while, and as soon as the boil is reached the saucepan must be moved to a corner of the fire, where its contents may gently boil for three-quarters of an hour. The fat should then be removed, and the consomme strained through muslin, after which cover up until wanted.