The Book That Inspired Gordon Ramsay
Escoffier recipe 7
BROWN STOCK OR ESTOUFFADE
Quantities for making Four Quarts.
Preparation. – Bone and string the meat, and keep it in readiness for the morrow. Break the bones as finely as possible and, after having besprinkled them with a little stock-fat, brown them in an oven; also stir them repeatedly. When they slightly browned, put them in a conveniently large saucepan with the carrots, the onions, and the faggot. Add five quarts of cold water, and put the saucepan on an open fire to boil. As soon as the boil is reached skim carefully; wipe the edge of the saucepan; put the lid half on, and allow the stock to cook gently for twelve hours; then roughly remove the fat; pass the liquid through a sieve, and let it cool.
This being done put the meat in a saucepan just large enough to hold it. Brown it a little in some stock-fat, and clear it entirely of the latter. Add half a pint of the prepared stock, cover the saucepan, and let the meat simmer on the side of the fire until the stock is almost entirely reduced. Meanwhile the meat should have been repeatedly turned, that it may equally affected throughout. Now pour the remainder of the stock, prepared from bones, into the saucepan, bring the whole to the boil, and then move the saucepan to a corner of the fire for the boiling to continue very slowly and regularly with the lid off. As soon as the meat is well cooked the fat should be removed from the stock, and the latter should be strained or rubbed through a sieve, after which it should be put aside to be used when required.
Remarks Relative to the Making of Brown Stock. – Instead of stringing the meat after having boned it, if time presses, it may be cut into large cubes before browning. In this case and a half would suffice to cook it and to extract all its juices.
Whether brown or white, stock should never be salted, because it is never served in its original state. It is either reduced in order to make glazes or sauces-in which case the concentration answers the purpose of seasoning-or else it is
used to cook meat which must be salted before being cooked, and which, therefore, imparts the necessary salt to its surrounding liquor.
Brown stock ought to be the colour of fine burnt amber, and it must be transparent. It is used in making meat-glazes after reduction, also to moisten meat for braising and to prepare brown sauces.